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Tom Wool: In the Shadow of Everest

By Peggy Roalf   Thursday June 10, 2010

When photographer Tom Wool went to Tibet's Rongbuk Valley in 2001, he followed the route taken during the first British expeditions through this area, including that taken by George Mallory and Andrew Irvine as they attempted their ill-fated Everest climb in 1924.

Accompanied by two yakmen and a tiny horse over the course of a month's time, Wool came to realize how little this area had changed since those early expeditions. His black-and-white photographs now on view at the Rubin Museum of Art capture a harsh terrain that has been populated by Buddhist monks and yogis, and inhabited by yaks, sheep, and goats for centuries.

Home to some 3,000 Tibetans, the Rongbuk Valley area is of distinct importance to the indigenous population for its sacred geography and religious history. Believed to be the place where earth touches the heavens, Mount Everest is called "Chomolungma" in Tibetan, meaning "Mother Goddess of the Earth." The valley is also home to the Rongbuk Monastery, the highest of any in the world at 17,000 feet above sea level. Until the monastery was built in 1902, the valley had been a permanent encampment for monks and pilgrims.

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Left: Ruins on the way to Pelep. Ding Pa La, May 2001. Right: Choldrim at Everest base camp, Rongbuk Valley, May 2001. Photographs copyright and courtesy Tom Wool.

Apart from the partial destruction of the monastery during the Cultural Revolution, life at the "roof of the world" is much the same as it has always been. In one image, Pasang Norbu, 74 years old, leads his flock across a field of broken rock that looks like the site of a landslide. In another, the stone wall and foundation of a ruined structure break through a lunar landscape under towering cloud formations.

This is a life of hard work, with everything reduced to the bare essentials. Wool's guide Choldrim proudly stands at Everest Base Camp, with the iconic peak shimmering in the background and tattered prayer flags fluttering at his side. In the village of Tsombuk, a woman named Thoma-Anche, shown weaving the traditional striped fabric used for everything from clothing to harnesses for the yaks, expresses the artistry of her craft through her strength and poise. One of the most oddly affecting images is a photograph of the contents of Choldrim's pockets. Among the small items, including a snuff box and an identity card, are several snapshots of the Dalai Lama - actual photographs, which are forbidden by the Chinese government.

Even a classroom located in a building made of mud and straw has a roughness that is softened only by the intricate calligraphy on a blackboard that hangs behind the master's desk. A precious book has been left on a wooden stool missing it's fourth leg - damaged but still useful for life above the tree line.

In the Shadow of Everest continues at the Rubin Museum of Art through July 26th. 150 West 17th Street, New York, NY. 212.620.5000.

On Monday, June 14, Tom Wool and celebrated high wire artist Philippe Petit will engage in a free-wheeling conversation ranging from the experience of heights and altitude to Tibet, education, the nature of creativity, and motivation. Click to order tickets, which include admission to the galleries.

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