American Couture, a term used to identify expertly rendered made-to-measure garments that underwent numerous fittings, was a movement led by Sophie Gimbel, who headed the Salon Moderne, at Saks Fifth Avenue, from the 1930s until its closing in 1969. An exhibition that explores the career of this seminal, yet little known today, 20th century designer, opened this week at the Sheila C. Johnson Design Center.

Noteworthy Salon Moderne clients included Marlene Dietrich, Hedy Lamar, Claudette Colbert, Rose Kennedy, and Lady Bird Johnson, for whom she designed a suit for the inauguration of President Lyndon B. Johnson. Fashions that Gimbel helped popularize included: sari dresses, bolero jackets, culottes, suit jackets lined with bold contrasting colors, and beaded sweaters with ball gowns. During World War II, she played a major role in organizing the first combined showing of American fashion in a precursor to New York Fashion Week.

In the 1940s, it became a platform for Gimbel’s own couture designs, one of which graced the cover of Vogue’s inaugural American fashion issue in 1940. In1947 she made the cover ofTime magazine, the first American designer to achieve this distinction. 

In timing with the exhibition, Saks Fifth Avenue will feature Gimbel looks in the windows of their flagship store on Fifth Avenue. On February 8, Parsons will also present a lecture by the curator, Beth Dincuff Charleston, in conversation with Saks legend Helen O'Hagan at The New School. Information.

Sophie Gimbel | Fashioning American Couture, on view January 22-February 12.The Sheila C. Johnson Design CenterParsons The New School for Design66 Fifth Avenue, NY, NY. Information.

Meanwhile in Paris, a sudden storm that dropped ankle-deep snow on the City of Light brought Paris Couture Week to a crawl. While most haute-couture consumers ride in limos to avoid wrecking their footwear, WWD hit the streets to snap great looks seen against a snowy background. Watch the slideshow here. 

Back in the USA, fashion, photography, and advertising will meet at Le Book’s Connections Los Angeles, Thursday, January 31. Word just came in from Dear Dave, whose fearless leader will undoubtedly attend. The one-day trade show is a magnet for art buyers, sellers, and branders, one of whom said that attending Connections is like getting six months of work done in one day. Register.

Just in from Vogue via SVA: New York–based (and –bred) illustrator Joana Avillez has penned portraits of some of fashion’s finest, from Bill Cunningham, Rei Kawakubo, and Marc Jacobs to Vogue’s Grace Coddington and André Leon Talley. Since she is currently working on art for Lena Dunham’s forthcoming advice book, we thought her keen eye would be perfect to capture the goings-on at HBO and Cinema Society’s Girls season two premiere last [week] at New York University’s Skirball Center.

In the old-school spirit of illustrated reportage, Avillez (who starred in Dunham’s comedy web-series, Delusional Downtown Divas) captures witty moments from the red carpet and after-party. Slideshow. Photo of Joana sketching backstage [above] by Mike Mosberg, from her blog.

Just in from AI-AP: The deadline for the American Photography 29 Call for Entries has been extended to February 1. That gives you another whole week to get your work together to be seen by this year’s outstanding jury: Sam Barzilay, Creative Director, United Photo Industries; Founder Photoville; Antonio de Luca, Art Director, Self Publish, Be Happy; MaryAnne Golon, Assistant Managing Editor and Photography Director, The Washington Post; Whitney Johnson, Photography Director, The New Yorker; Jody Quon, Photography Director, New York;Caroline Smith, Photography Director, Marie Claire; Casey Tierney, Photography Director, Real Simple.