Vegging Out. May 2014. For years, great eating—like, really chowing down—meant one thing for a man: meat on your plate. And the bloodier, thicker, greasier, saltier, the better. But a curious thing has happened recently. Call it the new green revolution. Suddenly, the most inventive and tastiest dishes are being created by chefs determined to move the once lowly vegetable from the side to the center of the plate.